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Kalle ReCut

It was third time lucky for this shirt. 

I know I post mostly about successful makes - but don't get me wrong, there are many fails!! 

I'd got this idea in my head about a nice black shirt with bright trim around it - about a year ago. I tried the Melilot pattern. That went wrong, way too small and I couldn't move my arms. I tried a Style Arc shirt. Same issue so I cut off the sleeves, then it looked ridiculous, then I put a hole in it. 

The idea went on hold until a realization hit me - why not stick with a classic. The Kalle Shirt. It's like going home...

I completely re-cut the pattern as the old version no longer fit. This one is a 16-18. It's roomy and has tons of ease so a great option for these cooler summer days. 

The fabric is excellent Viscose Linen Flow from Lamazi Fabrics. Same stuff I used for my Wiksten. I could not recommend this fabric more if I tried, it's just gorgeous to work with and wear. 

 The lines of the Kalle shirt worked well for my trim as it followed the shoulder and yoke lines really well, and turned out to be the exact width of the cuff - that was pure chance.

The trim is from Mokshatrim and they have some utterly gorgeous trims, ribbons and appliques. 

I feel better for getting this make out of my system as it was a long time coming. And what better label for the third time lucky?

Couldn't have said it better myself. 

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Lovely Lyra with Lions

 I'm back on the gathers - and as non-gather lover - this pattern is a whole lot them.

This is the super popular Lyra dress by Tilly and the Buttons It appealed to me as last year I found myself surprisingly fond of the Myosotis dress and who doesn't love a collared shirt dress so pop those 2 together and you get Lyra. 

I cut a straight Size 7 for this dress - my hip measurement put me at an 8 however there is so much ease in this it was not a problem at all. I could actually have still gone down to a 6 for the top for a more fitted shirt - however I do like oversized shirts and the loose feel in the heat. 

There are some lovely details on this pattern including the button placket (love a button, check out those paws), pockets, a waist tie and some funky little thread loops for the belt.

 I'd never tried this type of loop before and it did take some practice. I watched the video about 10 times and eventually got the nack of it. Once you get knotting the thread properly they come together quickly. Just not immediately!

 The fabric is a viscose from 1st For Fabrics and full of great animals. It's soft, breathable and drapes very well indeed for this pattern. 

I only had 2 meters but did manage to squeeze the whole thing into that EXCEPT for the pockets. Which are still an animal print of sorts...

I burn like a crisp and so these longer 'short' sleeves are good coverage when sitting in the sun, as is the collar for neck protection if you flip it up like Cantona. Here's my #showitseated pic for you:

I'm a bit obsessed by Mysostis v Lyra as at first glance they looked incredibly similar. I thought after I had made the Lyra there would be a clear winner but actually they are quite different dresses. I can't really put my finger on why though! 

The Lyra is certainly a lot more 'full' and feels a much more flouncy dress that's for sure. I think the Mysostis dress feels slightly more..sophisticated? 

If the dresses were people I think Myosotis would be sipping a fine chilled wine being very chic and cool. Lyra is it's chatty happy-go-lucky cousin sipping a pink cocktail with umbrellas. There's room in life for both.

Feel free to comment and come and say hello on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Bloglovin too xxx

Hey June - A Colourful Union

It's back again. 

The Hey June Handmade - Union St. Tee (dress) now with added 'back-hack'.


I know I've blogged about this tee and it's many incarnations several times but the 'back-hack' pattern piece deserved some more air time I think. Plus - I have some fun fabric prints to show you. 

For anyone with sway back, curves or a need for back shaping this FREE add-on is an absolute game changer.  It took my favourite tee dress to a way better fit and I can't get enough of it. The best bit is that the add-on can be used with ANY of the Hey June Handmade top patterns. Yay. 

Contours without Cling. There's a fit I can get on board with. 


This pattern is fab for showing off a great print - if you're into that kind of thing. Which I am. 

Here are some different prints and weights of fabric that this pattern has been whipped up in.

Let's start with this epic 'Cat Portrait' Frida Khalo Cats organic knit jersey from Flamingo Fabrics. Ridiculously soft and stretchy and an easy weight to sew with. Bonus points for the 'mad cat lady' look.

Equally as ridiculous, but not as obvious at first glance, is this striped Snoopy print jersey. This was from a German company called Stoffe-Werning - back before #brexshit when you could order from the EU without issue. Great quality again, a little more tightness to it.

Neon Turtles and Jellyfish - the natural look. Another great cotton jersey from Jelly Fabrics.

 Back with the bugs again from Flamingo Fabrics.

Turning the dial down a bit now to more of a subdued look is some single jersey from Sewisfaction - it is Cerise Leopard and a lot thinner than the others making it very stretchy and breathable.

Lastly, and possibly my favourite although it's hard to choose, is this 'Dark Mirror fabric from.. you guessed it. Flamingo Fabrics. This also feels a little thinner than to other cotton jersey however it's gorgeously soft and opaque. I still have some of this left for more of a strappy summer dress in due course.

There we have it - day of the week dresses for Spring! Well done if you made it down here. 

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Wiksten Wonders

 Hello! Back on the blog today after a bit of a break...largely caused by terrible weather for photos and a general lack of time.

 Up today is the rather popular Wiksten Shift by Wiksten - again, not a new pattern but one I have failed to make for several years on end despite it being in my pattern drawer!

Drawn in by the super-chic versions on Insta I really wanted a basic black version. I'd read a lot about the sizing of this pattern coming up really big and so I wasn't sure whether to immediately size down or stick to the pattern guide. 

Enter the wearable toile. I fished out some lovely soft viscose linen from the stash (Sew Me Sunshine in origin I believe) and set about a straight Size 16. 

There's a brilliant blog post by Wiksten here - explaining how to choose the size and also showing each size on a body! It recommends choosing from bicep size and so paranoid my arms wouldn't fit into a smaller version I went with my regular measurements for bicep and hip. 

I think the size is fine for this, it is an 'oversized' style and the belt takes the waist in nicely. The only slightly annoying thing is that it pulls backwards quite a lot.

Adjustments made were a slight front shoulder adjustment to try and even out the pull, and also I hate gathers so I put a pleat in the back instead.

 

Bagel Cat photo bomb

Happy enough with these results I cracked out some lovely black viscose linen from Lamazi Fabrics called 'flow' and dammmmmmm it's soft. 

 Despite being an identical replica of the toile (save for being longer length) it seems a lot bigger and still pulls down my back a bit. 

Don't get me wrong, I really like it! With a jazzy necklace I think it would be cool - however I may nip this one in a bit at the top and waist to shape it a bit more. Undecided yet!

Sammy getting in on the action here

I feel good to have made these, it's definitely been on my sewing list for a long while and it does give me that freshly 'just checked off' feeling. Now to wait for the weather to catch up to wear these things. It's May but it still thinks it's winter. Come on sandal weather we need you....

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Unsolicited Knitting

No sewing this week - just a lot of woolly creatures. 

I wanted to share a little personal project I've been keeping myself amused with during lockdown 3.0 and that was something I liked to call:

UNSOLICITED KNITTING

It's basically what it says. I entertained myself by making knitted creatures and secretly posting them out to people as a surprise gift - whether they wanted it or not. Either way it was with love.

Whilst I dabbled with knitting jumpers etc, I didn't love that too much but did find my joy in making creatures!

There was a fair few bugs sent out this winter, of the colourful cheery kind, and a lovely frog hat which was so much fun to make. (And the perfect use for an over-order of green yarn from Christmas sprout making). I found the patterns for these on LoveCrafts for free!

As I got braver, there were birds a plenty - and its turns out I absolutely LOVE knitting these birds from Knit for Victory. I really want to make the whole collection, the characters that Nicky Fijalkowska Stewart are just fantastic and her daily posts on Instagram hilarious. 

Sincerely Louise patterns have also been brilliant for knitted creatures as they are all worked flat (I attempted knitting in the round but failed spectacularly).

As the creature knitting continued I also found additional fun in trying to make little 'scenes' for a photograph.

 Lockdown 3.0 was a tough one - this was my way through :)

Now things have lifted a bit I do intend to keep making bits here and there - especially the birds!

 My first attempt at knitting was February 2019 and it was my sole ambition to make a pigeon...

 I think it may be time. 

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Pona Jacket Pairings - Helen's Closet

 Pass me the marmalade sandwiches and call me Paddington 'cos DAMN this is a yellow coat.

This is the Helen's Closet - Pona Jacket. Admittedly when the pattern first came out I wasn't too keen as I had only seen the cropped versions which were just not my cuppa. Then along came the lengthened versions, and the belted versions, and the fully lined versions.....and then love. 


The pattern is described as an oversized blazer that can be worn open due to the huge internal facings and also suitable as a beginner jacket pattern. The pockets are huge too. 


Drawn in to the belted jackets and the need to make something that wasn't a t-shirt and remind myself what spring colours are.. I pulled out this awesome wool blend and satin lining. 

The fabrics are both from Minerva (bought not gifted). The wool is a blend and is currently on sale if you were after any! Yellow and Coral versions here. There is a bobbly side and a smooth side so hopefully it stays that way.

The lining fabric was a satin which I chose for it's nice Spring feel and yellow accents too.

Size-wise - this is a 16/18 and just right. No modifications to the pattern at all, although it's a big loose jacket so very forgiving in that respect. Very true to size as I've found with Helen's Closet generally. 

There are actually minimal pieces involved in the jacket itself and comes together incredibly quickly. I especially like how the collar is attached and the facing top stitching runs into it. The instructions are clear and well illustrated.

My KirstinStride beetle brooches have found their permanent home!

The jacket can be left unlined with bound or finished seams however I fancied a bit of pizazz. My mantra is that 'linings must always be jazzy' and so the bright fabric fulfilled that criteria.

 The lining itself is also super simple (phew). The tutorial is here on how to cut and attach the pieces. 

I attached all my pockets and belt loops BEFORE adding the lining as I didn't want the stitching showing on the inside. Attaching the lining itself was also thankfully quite straight forward and a lovely finished when turned the right side out. 

Not only did I make myself a Pona Jacket - I made my sister one too! (We live very far apart so no twinning with this one).

She'd fancied a mint green spring coat, and hey-presto - an early birthday present appeared. (I say appeared. 2 weeks of stitching and faffing later). This one drapes a little differently as the outer fabric is ponte! Although that is stretchy, the coat is big enough to take a woven lining and act like a normal woven coat. But soft.


Once again with the jazzy linings, some birds from Fabworks were selected:

Annnnd again just to cap off the present nicely - the addition of another bird! (Can you tell I love a theme?) Beautiful Bullfinch by Kirsten Stride. 


Well done if you made it to the bottom of this post, thank you!

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