Republique du Chiffon - Robe Annabelle (Of sorts!)

This had been in my stash for sooooo long. About a year ago I bought one of the kits from Atelier Brunete after my usual Pinterest stalking. I hadn't made any clothes in quite a while as having a bit of a low sew-jo moment, but just recently the mood struck me to pick it up and give it a go.

The kit itself is perfect - the paper pattern by Republique du Chiffon, just the right amount of gorgeous Atelier Brunete 'Facet' fabric which is a drapey viscose, zip and the best of piping!!

I followed the chart and accordingly cut a 38 top/40 bottom unfortuantely it was absolutely huuuuggggeee on top. By the time I noticed how big the bodice was, I'd already got carried away and applied all the facings and zip to the neckline and front of the dress. Massive error. I couldn't bring myself to unpick about 6 lots of stitching, understitching, topsticthing so just winged it. Also a massive error. I should have toiled, I should have tried, I should have unpicked! I have no idea why it was so big though, perhaps designed for someone with enourmous boobs!

What I did do however was just chop out the zip rather crudely then restitch the dress up the front - so it now goes over the head. This has the effect of massively raising the neckline and now it looks a bit frumpy :-( It was quite an expensive kit and I adore the fabric so I was desperate not to give up on it.

This is the end result - still love that gold piping though!

It doesn't look too bad on - it just feels weird. A bit awkward. Note the unimpressed face. No camera I will not look at you.

I still like the style of the dress so somewhere on the never ending list of things to make - I may toile!

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Grainline Studio - Stripey Hemlock Tee

I finally got round to trying the Grainline Studio - Hemlock tee! It's a free pattern and its so versatile! There are zillions of them floating about on the interwebs and it fulfills my clothing requirement of secret pyjamas.

It's a one-size pattern and whips us a treat in record breaking time. I did a little test version in some crappy jersey just to see how the proportions were, and then altered the hemline for this version.

The pattern was altered by drafting a dip hem at the front and back. The pattern was extended down 3" for coverage, and the slit/curve was started 3" above the original hemline. And that is all!

It's made from some thick stripe ponte so quite warm, its been so handy for just throwing on and looking half decent without a lot of effort! This has got to be one of my most work me-made pieces to date. 

Hemmed with the assistance of wonder tape to stop it going all wavy
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Made up on the Fly - Fly Front Zip Tutorial!

Bit of a post delay but been busy sewing for college :-)

Before making my Ginger jeans I had to do a million practice versions of a fly front zip. Think I'm kidding?

So whilst trial and erroring a method that suited me I made myself a little 'how to' instruction for future reference. This was BEFORE I bought the Jeans e-book which would have saved a lot of hassle but not matter! I thought I would share my tutorial so here goes!

Grab a wine (you're going to need it) and settle in:

1.  Mark the centre front lines and seam allowance and the point at the end of the crotch curve

2. Finish the edges of the fly extension – start at top and bend the crotch curve out of the way to avoid cutting the main fabric

3.      Interface the fly extensions for stability and to avoid stretching out the fabric

4.      Securely sew up the crotch curve to the tack mark, thereafter use a long stitch and baste up the centre point line

5.      Clip the seam allowance at the tack mark, taking care not to cut the row of stitching

6.      Finish the crotch curve seam

7.      Press the fly extensions open (in this example I was pracising for the Ginger Jeans and so the seam is also pressed to left – the trousers are flipped to the front and topstitching is added to the right of the crotch seam, allowing the crotch curve to be secured down)

8.      Get a zip that is longer than needed so the zip pull stays out of the way and lines can be more accurate. The end of the zip tape should go to approx. end of the fly extension (the metal stopper being approx. 1.5cm or so above this)

9.      Place zip face down onto the right extension, through one layer only, pin and sew the right side of the zip tape, starting at the bottom upwards

10.   Turn the zip on itself and topstitch into place on the fly extension

11.   Turn everything onto the opposite side so the left fly extension is on the table. Let the zip naturally hit the fly extension (this need not line up exactly with edge of fly extension, preferable it doesn’t so there is room to topstitch later at point 13. Pin and sew into place

12.   Mark the zip end with a pin.(You don't want to be breaking any needles on that metal bit!)

13.   Draw on the fly shape so that it curves from below the pin and out about 2.5cm from centre front line. This line should also catch the fly extension behind it as well as the very bottom of the fly extension/zip tape as it curves inwards. Pin into place.

 14.   Stitch the line following the guide, starting from the crotch curve upwards

15.   Create the fly shield – the raw edge can be finished on overlocker or bound

16.   Stitch the fly shield onto the right fly extension as far down as it will go (my fly shield was a bit short on this, needed a cm extra to cover all the guts)
Stitched as far as possible then runs out of fly extension
17.   A little tack can be made from the front of the trousers on the fly topstitching that will catch the fly shield at the back and hold it in place – this can be a small tack by hand or for jeans, a bar tack by machine (see picture)

18.   Flip to the front of the trousers and undo the basting stitches

All done! - Enjoy those zipped up trews. They're pretty fly. (Oh dear...)

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